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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary honour.